A Brighter Geometry: Inside the New NB Minimus Zero Uppers

Somewhere in the middle of explaining the thinking behind the design of the upper for a new minimalist running shoe, Drew Nyssen has gotten stuck on pin art. "Those toys with the metal pins that take the form of whatever you put against them", explains the Senior Designer in New Balance's Advanced Products Group, "every pin represents a point of geometry — and it's this combination of geometry and nature that's at the heart of what we're trying to do with the design of NB Minimus. I think you really see it on the Minimus Zero."

To hear Drew and fellow Senior Designer Chris Wawrousek talk about the design of the uppers for the forthcoming NB Minimus Zero Trail and Road shoes is to follow points of reference that range from pin art to outerwear to Mexican food. It quickly becomes clear that there was no roadmap for ultra-lightweight, zero drop shoes and that the primary influence on these shoes would be the lessons learned from the original NB Minimus Trail and Road.

"It was a really happy moment when we learned that we'd be keeping the original NB Minimus and making the Zero", says Chris. "It gave us the opportunity to develop an amazing shoe suited solely to the needs of the person looking for a zero-drop trail or road shoe. With the road shoe, I think Drew really nailed it in terms of comfort."

To get there, Nyssen started with an unfortunate reality, namely that "most racing flats are just really uncomfortable." While acknowledging that the NB Minimus Zero Road aren't strictly-speaking racing flats, the minimal, stripped-down construction presents a similar problem — how to build a shoe that could have a 'slipper-like' fit without adding weight.

To this end, Drew used a 'burrito' or mono-tongue: a single piece of material that wraps around the foot, providing medial support while simplifying construction. "It delivers this ideal blend of flexibility & movement in the forefoot, and minimizes the number of seams on the interior", says Drew. "This shoe feels great in bare feet."

To further explore ways in which the designers could reduce weight while adding structural support — an "all mesh upper", Drew notes "is not very supportive" — Nyssen and the design team applied a series of ultra-thin (0.5mm thick) overlays to the surface. These overlays, welded — not stitched — to the surface of the shoe control the stretch of material in the forefoot and have a pronounced impact on both the way that the upper of the NB Minimus Zero Road feels and responds to flexing in the forefoot. "Mesh, by its very nature will stretch" notes Drew. "These overlays are placed to stop that stretch at specific points across the foot."

The redesigned NB Minimus Zero Road takes strong visual cues from the NB Minimus Trail, particularly evident in the translucent mesh upper. Expect that to continue. "Repeating geometry has become a defining feature of Minimus", says Drew.

The evolution of NB Minimus Zero Trail is every bit as pronounced, beginning the moment you pick it up. "The difference in weight is really noticeable," says Wawrousek, "although with this shoe we wanted it to start light – and finish light, too." This meant using a material formed from monofilament fiber, which doesn't saturate when the trail meets water.

Trail runners will also immediately notice fewer internal seams – designed to minimize surface contact for barefoot runners – and a redesigned, streamlined tongue that eliminates even still more weight from the already ultra-light NB Minimus Trail. They'll also notice that the NB Minimus Zero Trail and Road shoes are available in completely updated collection of colors that, in combination with the new materials used in the uppers, really catch the eye. "These are shoes designed for the most vocal, outspoken group of minimal runners," Chris says, "They're not afraid to let people notice their shoes."

NB Minimus Zero Road and NB Minimus Zero Trail will be available online and at select running stores in March 2012.