Lifestyle

Sonic Welds, Hair Dryers and Goat Leather

Sonic Welds, Hair Dryers and Goat Leather
 
 

New Balance Senior Product Developer Kenneth Straka checks in from Bali

Update: Since this post was published, the official name of the product line referred to here has been defined as 'Sonic welded 574' rather than 'Sonic 574'. In order to avoid confusion, the content of this post has been updated to reflect that name change.

The Sonic welded 574 attracted a fair bit of attention when it was announced in January - a new series of colors and textures and the first New Balance shoes made with a sonic welding process. Sonic welding utilizes tremendous heat and pressure to create an airtight (and watertight) seal using significantly less labor than is required for traditional stitching. To commemorate their launch this week, we threw a few questions about the shoes at New Balance Senior Product Developer Kenneth Straka. And in celebration of that saved labor, Ken spoke to us from a beach in Bali.
Sonic 574 Shoes
The Sonic welded 574 in black, gray, and brown


NB: Just as the Sonic welded 574 launches in the US, one of the key people behind the shoe is halfway around the world. What gives?

KS: Other than surfing?

NB: Other than that, yes.

KS: I had two primary goals for the this trip: Finalize materials for products in development for the beginning of 2011, and to start revised prototypes for the shoes coming out next summer. There were secondary goals, as well, like helping out with design explorations for fall of 2011 – (New Balance designers) Jodi Klann and Kai Marcucelli have been sending me ideas during the trip.

NB: How does being on-site in a place like Southern China further the design process?

KS: When you have strange/different ideas, it’s much easier to explain them to the factory in person. The Sonic [welded] 574 never would have worked had Taylor Canby (Sr. Designer, Lifestyle/NB Asia) not been in China to initially help explain the concept.

NB: How so? To what extent does manufacturing enable the design process for you?

KS: Our factories basically had to develop this process from scratch. Jenny Chen and Mad Johnson of New Balance China actually brought irons and hairdryers into the office to melt materials together, in order to help prove that the process worked. After the proof of concept, the factory started to invest in proper equipment and machines. A year and a half ago, none of our factories knew how to do any of this, so it was pretty awesome to be involved in the initial exploration.

Jenny Chen reviews 574 materials
The watchful eye of Jenny Chen reviews Sonic welded 574 materials

NB: Now that you’ve applied this to the 574, do you foresee this same process informing future designs of other New Balance shoes?

KS: My favorite thing about the process is its simplicity – now that we know how to do it. It took a lot of trial and error to figure out the correct temperature and the correct materials to use. Once we figured that out, though, it opened up the doors to so many different opportunities, which we’re continuing to explore for upcoming seasons.

Mad Johnson
Mfg. Eng. Mad Johnson shows off his Sonic welded shoes

NB: Beyond the technology that shapes the way the Sonic welded collection is manufactured, how do you feel about the shoes themselves?

KS: In looking at the Sonic [welded] 574, I see it as a work of art…or rather a work of art that’s meant to be worn. We didn’t sacrifice anything in terms of durability, fit, or function – even though it feels so soft and lightweight. If anything, the bonding actually makes the shoe more durable.

NB: How so?

KS: On a conventional shoe, if a stitch detail comes undone, the shoe starts to fall apart. The Sonic [welded] 574 doesn’t have this problem, because there’s no stitching. It’s also probably one of the most comfortable and breathable shoes I’ve ever worn because there’s no glue used in the shoe’s upper. It’s cool to walk around the factories and see all the NB China associates rocking Sonic [welded] 574s.


NB: With that accomplished – and once you’re done surfing – what are you looking to explore next?

KS: One thing that’s really interested me as of late is high-end leathers. I’ve been trying to find ways to work them into shoes without increasing cost – which often means taking out other unnecessary things. We have some 574s coming out mid-2011 that are using high-end fashion leathers made from Goat.

NB: Goat?

KS: The leathers are much thinner and softer than our factories are accustomed to using, so I had to spend a lot of time working with them to figure out how to properly stitch and back the leather without ruining the feel or appearance.

NB: And the side trip to Bali is a convenient side-benefit?

KS: That it is.

The Sonic welded 574 is available in select retailers as of 4/1/2010, and will be available online at shopnewbalance.com within the next several weeks. To get a closer look at the shoes, check out this Flickr gallery where we'll also be uploading some behind-the-scenes shots showing how the sonic welding process works. For more information in the meantime on the materials and process, check out this presentation. Update: The collection will hit select retailers on Thursday, April 15th, rather than April 1 as initially anticipated.

 
 
Filed under Shoes, Culture
17 Comments
April 5th 2010 at 4:28 PM EST

Very informative stuff. Took me to another world. Makes me want to keep an eye open for the new Goat Skinned 574's. Thanks.

 
April 14th 2010 at 1:59 PM EST

Hope to see these.

Hope to snag a pair too!

 
June 27th 2010 at 12:17 PM EST

WOW LOVE IT, WOULD LOVE TO OWN A PAIR OF THESE SHOES, BUT I ALSO LEARNED A NEW WAY OF LIFE IN A NEW COUNTRY, THANKS FOR SHARING

 
June 28th 2010 at 3:10 PM EST

test

 
July 30th 2010 at 12:10 PM EST

Any chance New Balance will develop lifestyle shoes made from non-leather or all synthetic materials? As a vegetarian, I've long used lightweight NB running shoes. I like the style of many of the lifestyle shoes, but I don't want to buy shoes made from animal products.

Are there any NB shoes you could recommend for me?

 
Kestraka   NewBalance.com Staff
July 30th 2010 at 7:12 PM EST

RE: Non-leather shoe recommendations

Definitely can recommend some non-leather shoes for you. The Sonic Welded MS574 is one of my favorites:
http://www.nbwebexpress.com/search_results.asp?searchType=quick&qry=ms574&x=0&y=0
The "suede" used on Sonic Welded 574 is synthetic... it's a non-solvent microfiber material called "Tirrenina Suede". You can read more about it here: http://tirrenina.com/

Also, if you're looking for more of a classic look, we built a few 574 styles out of all synthetic leather material. We referred to them as "574 Ceracom". I listed a few below.
574 Blue Ceracom: http://www.nbwebexpress.com/newbalanceML574RC.htm
574 Black Ceracom: http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m574-black-ceracom
574 Burgundy Ceracom: http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m574-burgundy-ceracom

The last style I'll recommend is the V74 (made out of all canvas). Take a look at them here: http://www.zappos.com/v74-new-balance

 
July 31st 2010 at 1:22 AM EST

Awesome, thanks for the recommends. It appears that Zappos has the sonic weld 574s in Black/Aqua and Brown/Orange. There are also some other color combinations, such as this all black one:
http://www.zappos.com/images/117/117623/10280-188209-p.jpg

Is that also synthetic, or only the Ceracoms and the new MS574 with the sonic welds?

Also, any chance these black/red 373s are synthetic? http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m373-black-red?zlfid=111

It would be really awesome if you used some kind of indicator/icon/symbol to make it easier to spot the non-leather models, both online and in the store.

P.s. It looks like you've discontinued the 790—do you have anything similar to replace it?

 
Kestraka   NewBalance.com Staff
July 31st 2010 at 2:30 PM EST

Yes, Zappos also carries the Sonic Welded MS574. They have 3 color combos available.
Black/Aqua: http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m574-black-aqua
Brown/Orange: http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m574-brown-orange
Grey/Lemon: http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m574-grey-lemon

The other 574 you referenced (http://www.zappos.com/images/117/117623/10280-188209-p.jpg) uses real suede. As of now, the only 574 styles available in synthetic are the Ceracoms and new MS574 sonic welds.

The black/red 373 style uses real suede (http://www.zappos.com/new-balance-classics-m373-black-red?zlfid=111).

Sorry for the confusion... I will mention this to our sales department. I think it's a great idea to add an indicator as you suggested.

No replacement for the 790 at the moment... but we have something in the works for beginning of next year. Keep checking back!

 
August 8th 2010 at 5:51 PM EST

Kestraka, thanks for the great info!! The Sonics look amazing.

I agree with foresmac that a vegetarian indicator would be MUCH appreciated. Often even big retailers like Zappos don't publish the correct copy describing the materials, so having a V or something in the model number would be very helpful.

Going a step further, could NB make an effort to produce vegan shoes? I'm no expert but I think typically the difference between vegetarian and vegan shoes is in the glue. And most shoe makers either use glue made from animal products or not depending on what's cheapest at the time. If NB could make its vegetarian shoes certified vegan (no animal products used at all in the entire shoe) and label them as such (like the Saucony Jazz Lo Pro Vegan) that would be a huge incentive for all the vegans out there. Most of the vegan brands (Draven, Macbeth, Toms, etc) can't hold a candle to NB soles so I think you guys could really put a dent in that market if you wanted to. The V74s were a great step in that direction even though again I'm not sure about the glue (maybe you can clarify?).

Also from the vegetarian perspective it's a shame the Pro Courts (http://www.hanon-shop.com/new-balance_pro-court-bk_pre-buy.html) have leather accents on the N and the heel.

 
August 8th 2010 at 9:26 PM EST

I have to agree, the Pro Courts would be awesome in a veg*n version—maybe the leather bits could be replaced with the Tirrenina "suede."

Kestraka: any info on when these hight top V74s are going to be available? http://www.soleredemption.com/balance-v74/

 
Kestraka   NewBalance.com Staff
August 9th 2010 at 10:45 AM EST

DJM: Appreciate the feedback very much. I've sent some suggestions to our sales/marketing team regarding better labeling shoes online. I agree that it can get rather confusing if the description doesn't match the actual product.
Also, good question regarding vegan shoes. I had to double check with our factory about the exact glue/adhesives used in making the V74s (I know NB uses a combination of water based and oil based adhesives). They confirmed that the glue used on V74 styles is NOT from animal parts. I'll have a bit more information on specifics by tomorrow morning (or late this evening).

Foresmac: The high top V74s (featured on sole redemption) were done in collaboration with the snowboard brand 686. They will be launching this fall... just in time for snowboard/ski season.

 
August 14th 2010 at 7:37 PM EST

Thanks for digging into all this for us fussy veg*ns, Kestraka. If it helps, there are organizations like Mercy for Animals and Peta2 that I'm sure would be interested in helping get the word out about vegan styles that you sell. Like DJM said above, some of the current brands that target this small but growing demographic aren't especially good at making good shoes for athletes/active people. You can certainly count on me to help evangelize the sonic weld and ceracom 574s.

Also, I'll keep my eyes peeled for the hightop V74s!

 
Kestraka   NewBalance.com Staff
August 17th 2010 at 10:59 AM EST

No worries... glad I could be of some help!
Appreciate all of your feedback... and thank you for the support.

 
September 30th 2010 at 4:31 AM EST

Wow, great article! I've been wanting a pair of 574 Sonics after reading on size.co.uk that the fabric is supposedly all synthetic suede. The folks at size couldn't confirm this for me, and after checking with Zappos and New Balance support, who both said that the shoe was real suede, I almost gave up. Then I found this article and it looks like I'll be ordering a pair after all!

I would also like to see better descriptions for the shoe materials. Many listings are inaccurate and I always need to contact the manufacturer directly to confirm what materials are used. Even then I might get wrong information.

As for 100% vegan New Balance shoes, if you check the vegan web stores you can find some. If I remember correctly the NBs that are 100% vegan (including the glue) are made in the USA. The NBs made in China could be 100% but the glue source is unknown. I have yet to see an NB Classics model on the vegan sites which is too bad because the Classics are the only styles that I like.

Also, the New Balance online FAQ has a list of vegan shoes, none of which are Classics. Over the years I have looked at this list periodically but never see any Classics or limited editions listed. It would be nice to see the 574 Sonics and some other models (A09 Hemp) put on the list.

 
November 6th 2010 at 1:33 PM EST

Any chance your shoes would say "Made in the USA"?

 
September 13th 2011 at 2:14 AM EST

I just saw this article about the shoe tax likely being lifted for Vietnamese imports: http://bangordailynews.com/2011/07/29/business/new-balance-struggles-as-last-remaining-major-u-s-athletic-shoemaker/

While this is tough news on the surface, I believe there is a slow realization coming about that this country's struggling economic problems can be better solved by purchasing American-made products. Bring these processes to the States and get your marketing department to wave its flag; people are taking notice.

 
September 16th 2011 at 5:45 PM EST

lol... I think I've been to that temple in Bali. I think they should keep the name "Sonic 574" and then make the shoe white and blue with hedgehog spikes.

 
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